The Grand Tour
A walk around Mid-Victorian Ilkeston, based on the recollections of Adeline Wells (1854-1944).
Edited and extended by Dave Johnson.
Before we begin our walk, a brief explanation
Look what faces us !!
Up the East Side of Bath Street
“In Bath Street (in 1850) one could walk along without any fear of being jostled” but walking up it could still wear you out.
This part of our walk takes us from the bottom of Bath Street to present-day Northgate Street.
Up the east side of Bath Street … a quick look at what faces us
The Town Station … the Midland Railway develops, two stations, complaints and dangers, good and bad news, improvements and problems, changes, crime, competition, the future
James Chadwick and family … Jokerman, Rocket Man, Music Man, Family Man
Butcher Twells’ shop and field …. Brussels Terrace, Twells family
William Riley, the unfortunate butcher … bankruptcy, emigration
John Trueman and the Durham Ox … drinking places, Sportsman John, Victualler and brewer John, John in retirement, Arthur Holmes
The candle maker: Moses Mason and family … senior and junior, the candle manufactory, the Mason family
The Local Board
From 1864 until 1887 ‘the officials running the business of the town were embodied in the Ilkeston (Local) Board’.
The Highway Board … Ilkeston in the 1850’s
The Town lighting issue of the 1850’s … Ilkeston in darkness
The Local Board’s formation … Ilkeston in turmoil
The 1869 Election Crisis … Ilkeston in crisis
The Local Board vs The Gas Company … Ilkeston in conflict
Reform, economy, retrenchment and efficiency … Ilkeston in austerity
The Town Hall … Ilkeston in the Italianate style
And what has the Local Board ever done for us?? … Ilkeston illuminates and improves
From Board to Borough … Ilkeston Incorporated
Onwards, upwards and round the corner
This part of the walk continues up Bath Street, past Wilton Place and into Station Road – originally named New Street – which we explore before returning to Bath Street.
The Brunswick Hotel … William and Sarah Jones, domestic abuse … and a drunken Ilkeston
Wilton Place and the Woolliscrofts … the Woolliscroft family
Station Road corner … Joseph Fletcher, William Wade, Joseph Haynes
Into New Street (Station Road) … a cul-de-sac
Riley’s Row … George and Samuel Riley and the Cockayne sisters, Levi Webster
Henry Carrier … his wife, family, and bankruptcy
Samuel Wood, grocer and baker … wife and children
Enoch Carrier … and off to the U.S.A.
Housing … Thomas Shaw and Pigsty Park, Rev. William Carthy
Beyond North Street … Boiler explosion; Dr Norman’s premises; Benjamin Howard and family; John Allen, railway porter; Rope Walk aka the Ropery
Brickmaker Samuel Shaw … his wife and family
Up Bath Street to Jack Lee's Yard
We now walk out of Station Road and back into Bath Street, continuing our journey towards the Market Place but pausing at Albion Place/Jack Lee’s Yard. First we must make our way to Chapel Street.
To Chapel Street … William Tarlton, Aldreds, Tilsons and Henshaws, Argyle’s tin shop
Into Chapel Street … Samuel Bostock, Watsons and Woolleys, the Flower Pot, Smiths, Flinders, Richard Blake
The Prince of Wales beerhouse … the Green family
The tale of George Clay Smith … murder, prisecution, defence, verdict and sentence, confession and punishment
And what happened after George? … Aaron and Sarah Aldred, brothers Henry and Edward Smith, uncle Samuel Smith, Emma and Annie Eyre, Ellen Cox, Isaac Aldred, Martha Cockayne, victim Joseph Smith
Tailor Thomas Wass … tailor and outfitter, later occupants
London House of Kitty Beardsley … John and Catherine Beardsley, and family
The Ilkeston News … the first edition
The Allcock sisters … Maria, Jane and Bessie, brothers Samuel, John, Charles and Isaac
The Queen’s Head Inn … Benjamin Wade, Aaron Aldred, John Trueman
Bostock’s Row and the rowing Bostocks … elevation, aggravation, altercation, intoxication, justification, incarceration, arbitration
The Baker household … James and Mary, and family, Samuel Smith & Co. Bank
A row of three shops…. David Pressland, Boot and Shoe Shops, Richard Riley, Isaac Gregory
The Alms Houses and Ilkeston’s Charities … Ilkeston’s ten charities, occupants, Blind Billy
Jack Lee’s Yard/Albion Place … John ‘Jack’ Lee, John Hemmingway, Isaac Aldred,
The notorious Noons … John and James (Jack and Jim) Noon and their crime sheets
From Jack Lee's Yard to East Street
The last leg of our climb from Albion Place to East Street brings us into contact with some more notable Ilkestonians.
Fritchley’s farm … William and Ann Fritchley and children
Three empty shops … Joseph Carnill, John Wilson, Samuel Shaw, George Youngman, John Barron, Eliza Hallam
Henry Carrier and Sons … uncle Henry and nephew Henry and their business, lace and stocking making
Joseph Carrier, draper … his business, family, his assistants
John Wombell and the Ilkeston Pioneer .. the birth of the Ilkeston Pioneer, John Wombell and family, sued, on holiday, Maria Beardsley and an illegitimate son, the Doxey School
The Ilkeston Pioneer … the first edition, the last
George Small, a terror of evil-doers …. and his family, the New Inn (later the Borough Arms), the Horsley family
Selina Sudbury and a death in Derby … links to the Sudburys of High Street
There was no carriage road leading from Bath Street to Cossall. All such traffic went through East Street, Burr Lane, along the narrow road, over the Canal and Erewash.
We now walk down East Street to High Street.
Columbine neighbours … George Small, Elijah Higgitt, Sam Lowe and his missus, John Wilson, John Osborne
The Columbine house … Hannah Mellor, a Polling Station, a Building Society
The Carrier family … Henry and Elizabeth Carrier, their family
Carrier tenants and workers … Henry Harrison, Mark Wheatley Harrison, James Scattergood, Allen Dodd
End of East Street … Thomas Meakin, James Goddard, William Attenborough
The Wine Vaults and neighbours … Bartlams, the Bennetts at the Vaults, Charles Hiram Gregory, for sale, improper houses
Burr Lane and Albion Place
Here Adeline is describing a time when Burr Lane began at approximately what is now the car park at the rear of the Albion Centre….so the eastern (lower) half of today’s East Street was then part of Burr Lane.
Into Burr Lane … James Warner, Enoch Waters, The Gladstone Inn, Lucy Walls
The Joseph Knighton estate … Knighton family and their premises, the Twitchel, Robert Walker
The Burr Lane Brentnalls … James and Elizabeth, and their children, and other Brentnalls
And Browns … John and Sarah Brown and their children, homeless in Ilkeston
And Balls … Francis and Mary Ball, their children
Albion Place … the Barkers, the Pritchetts
West side cottages … Old Thomas Ball, the Askews, old ‘bachelor’ Burrows, John Gregory, Tom Gregory, James Alexander Barker and family
The Goddards and Ilkeston Brass Band … the Goddard family, the Brass Band
Ruth Veranna Goddard and Henry Beaumont … Ruth Veranna, Henry Hoggard, a family album, at home, family members
Up to High Street … a Harrison, a Sudbury, Anchor Carrier, Goddards, Wheatleys, Spencers
Penty Lee’s Garden … and the Severn family
Dalby House and Dr. Norman … Dalby House, Old Park or Old Hollows, Dr. Norman and family
Dr. Brigham … arrival and assimilation, aneurysm and amputation, and adieu
The Unitarian Chapel … origins, church sqabbles, Mark Whitehouse, a new chapel 1867-69, the Shakspeares
Anchor Row … Hithersay, Sudbury, Turton and Lacey, occupation into the 20th century
St. Mary's Church
The noble church of St. Mary, which is a landmark for the surrounding country, has always been with us and we are proud in being able to call it ‘Our Church’. Our Vicar was Canon Searl Ebsworth.
Education in Ilkeston
We shall pause at this point to reflect upon education within the town, the people connected with it, and the schools which provided it, many of them built in the Market Place area.
The Church School at the Butter Market … Smedley’s Free School, schoolmasters Cragg, Smith, Ryder, Whitehead, Gadsby, Robinson, Spendlove, Hughes and Frost
The old National Schools in the Market Place … girls first, then the boys
The new National Schools on the Cricket Ground … planning, public meetings, proceed, progress, built at last, Pimlico cricket
Ilkeston’s ASBO … Ilkeston education in 1875, Albert Eubule Evans, Trinity Infants School, more places needed, a School Board, election day 1878
The School Board … Granby Schools planned, more elections, Granby Schools built, a new School Board, and the rest
Around the Market Place
As we stand in the Market Place we have now reached the pinnacle of the town, and time for another pause.
Aldreds at the Old Harrow Inn … Harrow Inn Yard, the Aldred family (three Josephs), the Harrow Corner issue
Next door neighbours … Walter Allsopp, James and Sarah Elizabeth Oscroft, Edwin Wragg, John Poole, William Sudbury
Mr. and Mrs. Childs … and Oddfellows
Jedediah Wigley and the Market Tavern … now and then, Jerry and family, Inn for sale, father John Wigley
The draper’s shop … the West family, William Smith and Early Closing, West’s Yard
The Marshall family … Woolstan Marshall, John Wombell arrives, trouble with William Smith
The Sir John Warren … Mark and Alice Attenborough and their children
Town Hall cottages … Fred Mitchell, Thomas Mather, Samuel Rice, Bonfire night
The doctors … and the Post Office 1841-1851
Matthew Hobson and apprentice ….. the Hobson family, Paul Hodgkinson
West Side stories; Act 1
Starting from the Town Hall, we will now walk along the west side of South Street to Queen Street.
Quiet South Street … John Mellor, Ilkeston Bank, William Frost
The Daykin family
West Side stories; Act 2
Into Queen Street
We now leave South Street for a time to look into the Queen Street area.
John Fish, Parish Clerk … the Oddfellow, Parish Clerk, clock winder, property owner, brother William Fish
Frank Hallam’s Row ... John Flint Walker, George Elsey, Potters, George Wright, Tilsons, John Parkinson Mee, row for sale
Back to South Street
This part of the walk takes in the short journey from Queen Street to the Wesleyan Chapel in South Street.
The old white house … the Sudbury family, George Flint
A row of houses…Clark, Smith, Rowley, Daykin, Gregory
The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel
Like her father and other immediate family members, Adeline was a member of the Wesleyan Methodist Church and consequently writes at greater length about this church than any other. It should be remembered that many of the events she describes happened before her birth or when she was a very young child.
John Wesley … his influence, Mary Barritt, the Ilkeston Circuit
The ministers at the South Street chapel … Dr. Benjamin Gregory, George Haywood and John Baron, a new organ
To the Toll Bar
Down one side of the road to Straw’s Bridge and then up the other.
Kester Harrison’s house … Christopher Harrison, lace workers Anthony, Beniston, Kirk and White families
Around Oakwell Fields … the Ilkeston Colliery Company Ltd., Thomas Potter, Nahum and Betsy Ironmonger, William Tunnicliffe senior or junior
Stanton Road was very quiet.
Regent and Oxford Streets … Joseph Richardson, William Marshall, Catholic Priest and Church, the Chester family
The Havelock Inn and the Fletchers … Matthew and sons, and daughter, landlords
Cartwrights, Smiths and Burrows … Richard and Catherine Cartwright and family, Samuel Smith and two wives, Isaac and Mary Burrows
The Straws of Stanton Road … Phillip and Sarah, James and Mary, William and Catherine, Thomas and Eliza
Nottingham Road part 1
From Stanton Road we will walk down the west side of Nottingham Road to the Hunger Hill area
At the top … Joseph Harrison and lodging houses, blind Joseph England, the Raynes family.
Two beerhouses … the Lowe family and the Needlemakers’ Arms, the Flinders family and the White Cow
A touch of Frost at Hunger Hill
Most of the content of this section is the work of Alan Smith
Nottingham Road part 2
White Lion Square and streets off
We shall now walk around White Lion Square and take brief detours into Park Road, Market and Extension Streets.
The White Lion Inn … Bartholomew Wilson, Robert Marshall
The noisy Irish … Irish ruptions 1853, 1856, 1857; Michael O’Day; Father O’Neill, 1867 Christmas; Martin Scully; Kelly’s lodging house; an Irish mob 1880
The Anchor Inn … Elijah Brentnall, John Goddard, other landlords
East side of South Street
Not only will we take in this side of South Street, from White Lion Square to the Market Place, but also several of the yards and walkways off that street. We start at the Toll Bar.
William Campbell and the Toll Bar … local roads, Turnpike Tryst, toll disputes, demise, William Campbell and family
The Prince of Wales … William Thompson, Edwin and Mary Ann Godber, Trueman’s Court
Gladstone Street to Weaver Row…. Samuel Paling, Amos and Elizabeth Burrows, Flint Hawley and family, the Finches, the Raynes family
Amos and Sarah Beardsley … a family photo collection, John and Sarah Birch and family
Weaver Row … Weaver Pool, Joseph Mason, George Toplis, Aldreds, Harrisons and Tilsons, Mary Potts, William Fox
Ilkeston’s water supply … Parish Pump, Waterworks,
Disease in the town … Buchanan Report, street scents and disease, Blaxall Report, Cottage Hospital, vaccination, miasma
Burgin’s Yard and Row … the Toplis family, Eliza Farmer, Eliza Green late Cresswell formerly Skevington, Fretwell family, Holland family, Bob Burgin, the Butt family, William Hunt
Bath Street - west side, south end
We are now walking from the Old Harrow Inn, down Bath Street, on the left hand side until we reach the Spring Cottage beerhouse.
The top end … William Rose, James Turton, William Fritchley
Solomon Beardsley, Bath Street baker … Solomon, two wives and ten children, thefts, animal-lover, business woes, other Solomons
Mrs. Joseph Scattergood … Joseph and Elizabeth Scattergood and family
Into White’s Yard … Ruth Lowe/White/Revill/Haslam, Stephen Rose, Joseph Aldred, Betty Carrier, Mary Carrier and Milko Jack Foster, White’s Yard or Whitt’s Yard ?
To Mount Street … Charles Chadwick, Elijah Higgett, Joseph Hallam , John McKenna and George Purcell.
Jonty Trot of Mount Street … friends and enemies, his journeys, a fight !!, a new suit, brother Yellow Tom, Jonty Dido, Billy Deverill
Jonty’s neighbours … the Fox family, Tommy Hinds
Two bankrupt tradesmen … John Norton Hickman, Thomas Small, George Barker, the Wood brothers
Clarkson, Tooth and Pickburn … Simon Clarkson, chemist; George Tooth, currier; Eliezer Pickburn, tin-man; and Thomas Garrett; ps David Pressland
Short-term residents ... at Mount Row, Thomas Machin, Ebenezer Pulcifer, John Keate Tapley, Joseph Rice
Fletcher’s factory and the Wesleyan Church … and the Beardsley family at the Spring Cottage Inn
Bath Street - west side, north end
This part of the west side of Bath Street takes in the section from Spring Lane to the bottom of the road. We start at the Primitive Methodist Chapel.
The Primitive Methodist chapel and Daykins Row
The Poplar Inn .. the Ebbern family, Samuel Robinson, Potter’s stackyard
The Rutland Arms … Thomas Hives, brothers and sisters, 1834, Vauxhall Gardens, Scandal, Thomas the trader, family
The Manor House … the Cockers and Taylors, Frederick Shaw
Going beyond Bath Street
We finally look at some of the residents of the Heanor and Awsworth Roads area.
The Mundy Arms .. the Clay and Wilkinson families, butcher William Mellor
Up Heanor Road .. Bailey’s factory, Bradley’s inn, Shipley Lodge
Workhouse Hill … Wheatley Straw, the Baileys, Thomas Bramley, the Workhouse Widows, Back Lane
Starvation on Ilkeston Common 1863 … the Trueman family, Victorian inquests
Sources, references, abbreviations, further information and reading, and all that sort of stuff